Harriet Quick, Sarah Harris and Emma Elwick tell you the latest from the catwalks at London Fashion Week. All photos are by Chris Moore.

London Fashion Week women's wear collections shown and reviewed include:
Paul Costelloe, Michiko Koshino, Ashley Isham, Amanda Wakeley, Robert Cary-Williams, Erdem, Julien Macdonald and MAN whose presentation also included menswear.


Paul Costelloe A/W 06


Inspired by a post war London. Paul Costelloe opened fashion week with a mostly tailored collection; his series of grey marl trouser suits a la Marlene Dietrich mannish pleat front trousers with exaggerated cuffs, second skin waistcoats and pinstripe shirting were particularly powerful. In a rich autumnal colour palette of chocolate, Bordeaux, aubergine, teal and mustard, other standouts included velvet Bermudas, crepe de chine blouses (that were belted a main theme) double-breasted military coats, parachute silk trenches and large scale check trousers. Costelloe’s heroine? Joan Fontaine of Hitchcock’s Rebecca - his pleated mid calf skirts were made with the movie star in mind. Meanwhile his floral and faded paisley prints and folklore-style embroidered trimmings which popped up on skirt hems and jacket cuffs offered plenty of charm. SH

Michiko Koshino A/W 06


Known for her eclectic mix of fabrics and styles with apocalyptic overtones, Michiko Koshino did not disappoint. Literally taking it on the shoulder, Koschino deftly played with proportion, contrasting body-con cream tailoring with sumptuous pillow-esque padding. Championing a confident tailored silhouette, toile 40’s style kick-pleat pencil skirts and elongated stovepipe trousers were teamed with elaborate blouses with cascading ruffles and finished off with jaunty hats. Boiled wool cobweb dresses cast a slightly gothic mood to the Edwardiana vibe, and a tactile velvet corset and pouf added a playful touch. Her signature street style has certainly matured, but presided in baggy velvet hooded dresses, in faintly wish-wash or primary colour modernist prints. EE

Ashley Isham A/W 06


From the elaborately decked out runway Moroccan lamps and a backdrop of muslin curtains it was clear from the start we were to be transported somewhere exotic. This season, Ashley Isham looked to the Orient for inspiration. His palette was a riot of colour that ranged from apricot to cobalt to medina green to spicy orange, every hue made more vivid by the sinuous movement of his floor-sweeping silky gowns. Eveningwear is a category Isham excels at. He also showed a black and metallic collection of dresses in cocktail and floor length premiere styles that came trussed up with layered tulle underskirts, skilful boning and power mesh for the ultimate in waist-cinching. SH

Amanda Wakeley A/W 06


According to Amanda Wakeley, Autumn 2006 will be a dressy affair to remember. Inspired by Daphne Du Maurier’s Rebecca de Winter, the clothes were spirited, undeniably glamorous, but leave just enough to the imagination. Opening with a standout glossy black calfskin highwayman coat tied obi-style, Wakeley adhered to her signature super sleek line of Lady chic. The haute luxe mood continued with darkly roasted espresso leather jackets, sumptuous shearling collars, celeste cashmere sweaters and the smoothest tweed tailoring. In Wakeley’s vision, things really are simpler in black and white. The largely monochrome collection comprised of seductive satin Mikado style tuxedoes, and sharp shifts and pencil skirts finished with belle du jour velvet bows. For evening, the red-carpet floor-sweeping gowns were shown with peek-a-boo lace cutaways or precious beaded panelling, and the standout Gres- style bias cut ivory satin whispered old-school glamour. EE

Robert Cary-Williams A/W 06


In homage to Toulouse-Lautrec, Robert Cary-Williams showed a collection that centred around the can-can skirt. Each was masterfully crafted from a patchwork of clashing floral-print upholstery fabric; every seam burst with row upon row of tight ruffles. He balanced the volume with neat naval-style or puff sleeve jackets nipped at the waist. Although this collection certainly felt lighter in mood compared to previous seasons his gothic references were still apparent, namely in the shape of skinny cigarette jeans that came decorated with a multitude of inserted punky zips. What to wear over it all? Cary-Williams offered outsize mannish overcoats in khaki wool. SH

Erdem A/W 06


Fashion Fringe winner of last season, Erdem Moralioglu confirmed himself as a refined new talent in fashion at this collection staged in the suitably breathtaking Raphael Gallery at the V&A. As visitors to the museum filtered out, the fashion crowd entered to watch his kooky, charming line of Biba influenced tailoring read high waist trouser suits with corseted crop jackets in elegant grey and black wools with pretty print blouses with jabot necks beneath. Erdem has a good way with print and this season it featured exotic birds and butterflies on a diagonal striped silk background. A standout day dress featured a cowl neck with a body fitting silhouette in grey wool. For evening there were some lovely numbers including a long gathered blue stripe sleeveless dress with lace collar , and a Victorian inspired smock-front ivory silk dress. HQ

Julien Macdonald A/W 06


The Mac never lets you down on the image front - first down the catwalk to the cheers of the audience (including Meg Matthews and Tamara Beckwith) was his glam vamp fantasy woman made incarnate in the shape of platinum haired Paris Hilton in a crystal-emblazoned bodice-topped strapless prom dress in ice grey silk. Whatever your feelings about fur, Macdonald delivered some fine pieces - like a diagonal striped mink coat, shiny bomber jackets and an evening cape with pom poms. His models carried high waist glitter thread plaid trousers (yes, trousers are back) and a lot of flowing supermodel hair off with aplomb. Well - his sponsor is “because I’m worth it” L’Oreal. Red carpet numbers saw tropical print silks in criss cross-backed goddess gowns and a peacock feather trimmed, bespangled midnight blue jersey ensemble. And of course Paris did a couple more turns in silver and gold fringe dress and the finale white silk body skimming white wedding gown. Now where's the fiancé when you need him? HQ

Publisher: london fashion week
The British Fashion Council owns and organises London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards. It also seeks to help British designers to develop their businesses and has published Designer Fact File, a guide to setting up a designer fashion business and the Designer Manufacturing Handbook.
Web: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Published: february 14 2006
Market: mens womens
Region: england
Industry: apparel accessories

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