Harriet Quick, Sarah Harris and Emma Elwick tell you the latest from the catwalks at London Fashion Week. All photos are by Chris Moore.

London Fashion Week women's wear collections shown and reviewed include:
Roksanda Ilincic, Betty Jackson, Richard Nicoll, Jasper Conran, Gharani Strok, Ann-Sofue Back, Tata Naka, Nicole Farhi, Basso abd Brooke, Jonathan Saunders, and Phillip Treacey.


Roksanda Ilincic A/W 06


In mostly steely grey and black with accents of teal, Roksanda showed a collection that included many commercial pieces. Her clean-cut shift dresses were simple in mood; some came with pretty bows while others had bustles of net poking out from the back (it was a collection that focused heavily on ‘behind interest’ many pieces turned to reveal scooped out backs). Her coats were more operatic, they came in silk with exploding black ‘firework’ corsages, while others boasted sleeves crafted from three tiered ruffles, or huge dramatic shoulders. Matte dove-coloured tights and in some cases, baby pink elbow length gloves were the ideal accompaniment. SH

Betty Jackson A/W 06


With a pink neon stripe centred down her runway, it was no surprise Betty Jackson sent out a series of dresses to match. She focused on dropped waist flapper style shifts and baby doll styles that boasted panels of smocking and pretty, flippy 3/4 length bell sleeves; these also featured on tweedy cropped jackets and on a leopard print shearling. For night, she offered black lace with a smattering of sequins and carefree silky dresses. Suiting was also sharp. In addition to wide legged sailor pants, nubby double breasted jackets and belted tweedy princess coats, Jackson’s skinny ankle skimming trousers were a favourite. A bold collection that was full of desirables. SH

Richard Nicoll A/W 06


Richard Nicoll showed a collection that proved (if further proof were needed) that he’s the new one to watch. Aside from making sequins and PVC tasteful, he crafted pleat front mannish trousers entirely out of sequins and made slouchy shorts in shiny PVC, his skill was in his precision tailoring. Skirts were cleverly crafted from panels of herringbone with polka dot net and green inserts - his only flash of colour, while second skin jackets were complicated and featured sharp puff shoulders and a multitude of chunky zips. Other hits included green needlecord bustle skirts and beautifully pintucked silk chiffon blouses in dove grey. Although this is only his fourth collection and first time on schedule, Nicoll’s layered aesthetic is fast becoming his signature and was evident throughout; namely in the shape of neat bustier tops that reined in his voluminous crisp dinner shirts. SH

Jasper Conran A/W 06


Jasper Conran certainly knows what his clients like. In a palette that ranged from inky to black to amber to camel, he didn’t stray too far from his classic ladylike aesthetic. It was a sharply defined I-line silhouette that ran right the way through. Strictly tailored pencil skirts hit mid-calf and were paired with graphic polo-neck sweaters, crisp white shirts or belted short-sleeved jackets every look was accessorised with elbow length black leather gloves and a natty trilby. His sumptuous wool coats came belted and looked ideal for a crisp winter’s day, while capes cropped and long - had an equestrian feel. Conran’s eveningwear was particularly pretty; he showed wispy, light-as-a-feather silk chiffon strapless dresses in cloudy grey hues from thunder to dove. SH

Gharani Strok A/W 06


The girls took a turn for the dark side eschewing their normally bright and tropical prints for black and a flash of turquoise to suit fashion’s new moody mood. Models styled up with beanie hats, legwarmers and fabulously fetishy shoes ( note knitted hats are the new accessory for autumn) strode the runway in a series of gothy dresses. There were body contouring sheaths wrapped with tulle at the décolleté, empire line style’s with antique rhinestone at the cleavage and little blouses slipped under leg oh mutton sleeved designs and tulip shaped skirts wrapped tight with hip length jackets. There were lots of till ringers here including an oatmeal jersey babydoll style with rivets and a cute floral print in turquoise which had a Rosemary’s Baby air. It all goes to show how far a dress can go worn with polonecks or a blouse beneath it can literally take you anywhere. HQ

Ann-Sofie Back A/W 06


For her first runway show on schedule this designer a bit of an insiders secret took her inspiration from Cocteau and surrealism and a large dose of Norma Kamali. If that sounds an unlikely mix, eclectic roots is just what British based designers excel in. She tailored her dresses in great form so grey flannel made a coat dress, skinny to the body, with a wavy closure and crisp white wool made a db jacket dress with rolled up sleeves and mini length. She topped skinny skinny black trousers (yes skinny is still in) with fresh white blouses and turned a simple tube dress in grey jersey super sexy belted and cut just so. HQ

Tata Naka A/W 06


Once upon a time, there were two Georgian Twins who took London fashion week straight to the playground with their bright storybook-inspired collection. A series of whimsical characters danced down the catwalk; little princesses in frothy French lace or peachy chiffon blouses, vintage paste trims and baby soft cream boucle bell skirts and shrunk coats. Meanwhile, cartoonish Trompe l’oeil tea dresses kept ladylike fun. The feeling of dress up continued with bold paint box blue and red polka dot dresses in mismatch proportions, either one shouldered and blouson, or finished with broiderie anglaise bibs. Naughty tomboys ran wild in decorated marine blue and charcoal cashmere knits, and jersey tops painted with medal and military regalia. EE

Nicole Farhi A/W 06


Nicole Farhi explored the virtues of luscious tactile fabrics, guaranteed to please the vanity of our inner sloth and inspire the envy of others in the winter months. The opulent velvets and lightweight antique gold and copper lamé for evening glided effortlessly through the grand setting of the Royal Opera House. A lean floor-length column of plush black velvet was cinched with magenta velvet sash, and sweet cocktail length ruff- neck dresses glistened in jewel bright tones. For daywear, Farhi asserted an erudite Bloomsbury charm, with dustcoats crafted from cashmere, or tobacco suede with scalloped hems, large oversized buttons or loosely tied belts. Bordeaux low V cardigans, walking sensible shorts and floral embroidered dresses were mixed with muddy silk prints. Supple three quarter length gloves and sturdy saddlebags completed the look. EE

Basso & Brooke A/W 06


The Montgolfier brothers meet Thomas Edison? Or, Fragonard visits Metropolis? With one lace-up boot firmly in the decorous Victorian past and a manic eye on the future, Basso and Brooke brought their kinetic and colourful vision to the gothic vaults of London’s underground, amid popping rave music and electro-green laser-technics. Driven by a frenzied sense of discovery, the pair paid homage to Wellsian time travellers, with sombre equestrian tailoring - think buttoned-up riding coats, trim-shouldered jackets and skinny trousers in burnished metallic leather and computer chip print. Governess’s strictly corseted dresses and floor-swooshing handkerchief hems updated with a splash of Swarovoski, and prints of archaic technical drawings and leather-bound periodicals were straight from the gentleman’s library. The Victorian propriety restrained their characteristic print explosion, taking their collection to a sleek new level. Intergalactic confusion ensued with vivid printed velvet leggings, daring space bunny panelled bandeaus, a lovesick astronaut, and a leg o’ mutton blouse and mini-skirt combination. The jet beaded circuit board sweater dresses was a futuristic highlight. EE

Jonathan Saunders A/W 06


London Fashion Week’s prints charming, took a subtle approach to textiles this season. Embracing twentieth century surrealism and modernism, Glaswegian- born Saunders kept to a restrictive colour palette; graphic black and white, glacial ice blue, stone and ice grey. His signature prints were collated from an eccentric mix including a pheasant’s plumage, linear abstractions and ‘cracked’ effects at the hemlines of silk-layered skirts, strict folded-hem shifts and billowing strapless gowns. An ultra-chic black funnel-neck coat accessorised with a surrealist brooch in unglazed white porcelain, paper-fine cashmere turtlenecks, contrast-trim long-line cardigans, and body-contouring hand-crocheted dresses proved a luxe options for day. Cocktail hour dresses and cashmere jackets were adorned with graphic lines of gunmetal pearls, and high-octane laser-cut chiffon dresses in nude and an arresting flash of scarlet epitomised progressive glamour. EE

Philip Treacey A/W 06


High society met terrace casuals as acclaimed Royal milliner, Philip Treacy hooked up with Manchester-based sportswear brand Umbro last night, with a little help from England footballer Michael Owen (cue- rapturous calls from the crowd). Joining with bizarre circle of friends was edgy photographer Nick Knight and his arty showstudio gang, whose short film was majestically shown on gargantuan octagonal screens in the centre of the Royal Horticultural Hall, showing the acid tone leisurewear at all possible angles. The mighty Grace Jones threw poses in a languid lime hooded jumpsuit and graffiti style baseball cap, whilst Linda Evangelista played personal trainer. When the show began, bronzed ubermensch athletes modelled alongside Alek Wek, Erin O'Connor, Jade Pariftt, Jasmine Guinness and Eloise Anson, showing off Treacy’s millinery extravaganzas with shocking hibiscus pink yoga wear, orange visors and black leather jackets. EE

Publisher: london fashion week
The British Fashion Council owns and organises London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards. It also seeks to help British designers to develop their businesses and has published Designer Fact File, a guide to setting up a designer fashion business and the Designer Manufacturing Handbook.
Web: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Published: february 16 2006
Market: mens womens
Region: england
Industry: apparel accessories

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