Harriet Quick, Sarah Harris and Emma Elwick tell you the latest from the catwalks at London Fashion Week. All photos are by Chris Moore.

London Fashion Week women's wear collections shown and reviewed include: Bora Aksu, Jessica Ogen, Peter Jensen, Noir, Emma Cook, Fashion East Ð Medham / Kirchoff, Fashion East Ð Spijkers and Spijkers, Fashion East Ð Marios Schwab,Sinha-Stanic, Camilla Staerk, Giles, PPQ, and Unconditional.




Bora Aksu A/W 06
If you go down to the woods today be sure to take a selection of Bora Aksu
with you. The four-time New Generation award winner continued his love
affair with a putty-coloured palette and a boho, layered aesthetic. He
crafted heavy skirts from panels of tweed and velvet and paired them with
jersey tops and delicate filigree leather waistcoats that were fastened
together with laces. Aksu softened the mood considerably towards the end of
the show with delicate crochet dresses overlaid in chiffon and balloon
sleeved tulle gowns that were so wispy they looked like they might take off
in a light, tree-stirring breeze. He added occasional punch to the colour
scheme with cornflower blue knits and emerald green velvet (one cloaked look
was so charming it wouldn’t have looked out of place in Little Red Riding
Hood’s closet). SH






Jessica Ogden A/W 06
A Parisian girl was Jessica Ogden’s point of reference this season. Based
around the simplicity of squares, rectangles and circles, she showed
doll-like pinafores, cocooning sweater dresses and artist style linen
smocks. In a moody palette of black, grey, navy and cream, it was a
collection that centred largely on texture, with corduroy (natty
knickerbockers), seersucker (blousy tops), heavy knits (a stripey outsize
cardigan coat had a particularly home-spun feel) gathering and pleating (on
almost everything, especially trims). The inspiration behind the shiny black
bobs? A photograph from the Sixties of Annabella, Ogden’s mother and the
title of this delightful collection. SH






Peter Jensen A/W 06
Three times New Generation winner Ashish Gupta took his quirky trash-wit glamour to a new genteel level this season. Ladylike strapless sack dresses were finished with outsize bows; matte black sequin T-shirt dresses came with scarlet ribbons and satin gloves, and shimmering red carpet column dresses. For day there were Hitchcockian smooth tweed dresses with drop-draped detail and Lurex flecked bold plaid coats. A gentle fifties vibe permeated from the naïve sunflower appliqué prom dress and dazzling black sequin swing coat with moon white outsize buttons. His eye-popping sequins also made an appearance in baggy sportswear shapes; pussycat bow pewter cardigans were paired with cuffed tracksuit style trousers. His wit and wearablity transcribed to his men’s collection, with a grey marl tracksuit, complete with Boy Scout tie hooded top, easy flannel trousers and zip-littered coarse wool biker jackets. EE





Noir A/W 06
Entitled “The Raven Ball”, Noir showed a darkly beautiful collection that
centred round masculine shapes and statement eveningwear. The design trio
favoured a skinny silhouette but with exaggerated shoulders. These took
shape in the form of shiny longhaired capelets that swung and glistened with
every step. There were many rock n roll references too, like severe pencil
skirts, skinny sateen drainpipe suiting (Noir is proving to be a force to be
reckoned with on the tailoring front; it’s razor sharp) and second skin boy
band blazers. So what to wear to Noir’s raven ball? As far as they’re
concerned, dramatic tulle and feathered capes, rabbit fur collars and hooded
puffa jackets were just a few of the hits. SH


Emma Cook A/W 06


The designer’s narrative muse Susan took a liking to shine this season SHINE ON SUSAN was the title of the show which showed all of Emma’s trademark chic with aplomb. Her prints this season were art nouveau inspired with black and grey patterns on anthracite silk in pretty loose shape dresses with gentle gathered sleeves and necklines. Handicraft was shown off to the best in stamped suede trapeze line coats while crystal and embroidery combined for fabulous necklines on oyster jersey and silk baby doll dresses. The shine came in sunray pleat crystal scattered slip dresses belted with matching cardigans and pretty metallic peach strapless deb styles. HQ

Fashion East - Meadham / Kirchoff A/W 06


A design duo with a taste for the hard and slightly gothic. Their first collection featured petrol coloured tweed in hourglass shaped coats and tiny bustiers which were worn over blouses to emphasise the breasts. There were some lovely shirt dresses in papal purple jersey belted neatly at the waist, also a picture worthy gown with layers of ruffled silk chiffon falling from a corset top, made demure with a tailored mens shirt on top. One to watch. HQ

Fashion East - Spijkers and Spijkers A/W 06


The sister duo who debuted at Fashion East last season are proving a hit on London turf with their taste in feminine cool. There were oyster coloured shifts with graphic satin tonal panelling running zig zag down the front and tiny organza pie crust frilled blouses slipped under slim pencil skirts or under high waisted linen dresses. Their line and cut is neat and chic and a good day to night option. HQ

Fashion East - Marios Schwab A/W 06


The hit of the Fashion East show, Marios has a taste for the severely sexy and elegant with echoes of Aläia. He channelled the 80’s to great effect with bodies and leotards slipped under high waisted pencil skirts in taffeta and velvet. Dresses are a real forté with a slim velvet sheath featuring sheer tulle at the top - a mere bandage of velvet covering the breasts, or a halter neck zip front style with flying layers of jersey of a neat pencil shape skirt. His work has echoes of Geoffrey Beene with a taste for surreal effects, like the top of the bodice of a sheath dress which appears to peel down, weighted by giant tassels or the tiny bustle of a skirt which carves a fabulous silhouette but from behind peeps a panel of lace. A great new talent. HQ


Sinha-Stanic A/W 06


The industrial seclusion of a Soho car park stood à rebours to the discreetly luxe display from Fiona Sinha and Aleksander Stanic. The pair have stridently moved to a tougher, sexier place after last season’s delicate Grecian layers. Concisely cut black and metallic bouclé collarless jackets were matched with reed-lean trousers or bubble skirts. Coats were strong, lending towards the classic with trenches and belted shapes gently tuliped below the waist, in caramac cashmere, camel hair and razored sheepskin. Evening took a heyday Aläia tone, with an array of abbreviated mini-dresses worn with vertiginous double-conical heels (note: pin-up pins essential). Choose from elegant origami drapes in vivid magenta or modern black cut-aways, embellished with burnished gold prism beads by Swarovski. Stealthily dynamic, the duo proved that young London could successfully be both edgy AND polished. EE


Camilla Staerk A/W 06


As the lovelorn lament to temptress Jolene echoed through the BFC tent at Camilla Staerk, it occurred that Dolly had little to worry about with this seriously seductive collection. Models boldly strode in bandage-tight bandeau dresses, cinched with either lock-tight corsets or super skinny chain belts. Fine cashmere turtleneck bodies worn with flirty suspenders and the second-skin long leather skirts with splits were pure 80’s redux. The colour palette did nod to the melancholic mood; overcast with predominantly black looks, including matt tailoring (fluted pencil skirts and peplum jackets), leather (panelled jackets, streamline dresses with shrugs), accents of cocktail lace and patent leather tracksuit style trousers. Interspersed were sombre off-colours, olive patent pixie boots, a nutmeg suede button-back sack dress and a muted floral circuit skirt, making the red alert entrance of a deep crimson wool dress with slick glossy red accessories all the more provocative. Ye olde wild western suiting in dusty velvet punctuated her men’s collection (think Pecckinpah’s moody Pat Garrett & Billy the Kidd), with ankle-grazing trousers and crumpled Dylan style dotted neckerchiefs. EE

Giles A/W 06


Giles Deacon goes from strength to strength with a stellar collection that was couture like in its execution and handcraft finish. For inspiration think of Cardin, the graphic pop art of Glaswegian artist and Turner prize nominee Jim Lambie and a touch of Harry Potter thrown in. Carmen Kass opened the show in a giant silver and gold knit vest slinked over baggy black felt wool trousers. Cocoon shaped shifts featured organic patchwork of printed silks, another with a giant lurex pocket on the back. The English love the beauty of eccentricity and extremes and Giles has made this taste utterly modern. A cocktail dress in a lovely raindrop print was decorated with big 3D bows at the shoulder and hem, while raw silk with an outsize tiger spot print preceded a black and white stripe ovoid opera coat complete with astrakhan collar. Evening looks were worthy of the red carpet with organza pleated into a bustier design with giant rosettes at the hem while volumes of chiffon were cut into sweeping long corset-top dresses in pale grey. There were ideas upon ideas in this fantastically rich collection with it’s kooky block-heeled pattern and stripe shoes (made by Gina) which ended with a long bright pink wizard coat with swirling blue appliqué pattern. Magic. HQ

PPQ A/W 06


PPQ was having one big party. This season the duo showed a collection
largely centred on the party frock, and their favourite style? The prom dress - strapless, full-skirted and wavering just above the knee - these came in sumptuous, colourful couture silks. The most unusual colours often worked best; flame orange, poison green and indigo (with pleated panelling) were particular hits. Other party wear included Dynasty-style blousy dresses with puffed shoulders and Sixties style
A-line shifts. More casual but no less desirable were Rugby shirt dresses and a series of large-scale multicoloured checked sundresses and pinafores. Coats and capes were also standout; the chicest was a belted, dressing-gown style in statement absinthe green. SH


Unconditional A/W 06


Unconditional, or understated? Philip Stephens’s unisex label has certainly grown from his ten piece capsule debut in 2003. A sure fire commercial success, relaxed haute quality basics in natural shades (moss green, stone, slate), were perfect for those escapist winter weekends. Sumptuous knits in tactile cashmeres and smooth merino cocooned the models. Snug highlights included a burgundy monastic style poncho, easy dressing-gown shapes, ribbed skullcaps and multi-wrapped long Aran scarves. Bold cable knits were paired with fisherman navy reefers and slouchy plaid trousers. But before you get too cosy, neat conker leather hussar jackets for men and the ladies simple shirt dresses added a well turned-out twist. EE

Publisher: london fashion week
The British Fashion Council owns and organises London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards. It also seeks to help British designers to develop their businesses and has published Designer Fact File, a guide to setting up a designer fashion business and the Designer Manufacturing Handbook.
Web: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Published: february 17 2006
Market: mens womens
Region: england
Industry: apparel accessories

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