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Infomat editors are hot on the trail of New York Fashion Week Spring 07. Acting as your personal market detectives, our editors review the designer cover, the current trends and all the market madness attached. Stay tuned; gumshoes UNDER COVERED is a new series sure to crack fashion's case.


editor: Nathan Zubal


The Cover

With strong innovation in menswear, Buckler is by far one of my favorite men's brands this season. Andrew Buckler launched the line back in 2001 with a style all his own. It's sexy, stylish, and has gained popular international attention in cult menswear.

From premium denim to printed tees, Buckler ups the ante with a laidback design aesthetic. Top on my list, the lilac jumpsuits that happen to be detachable. Also in my top five, the Buckler classic suspender/tie, printed tee that's adorned with a classic crest and bottomed out with a white belt and lilac pant. Monochromatic white makes an appearance, and who could ever forget the continuing love affair with hiked up argyle socks.

The Trend
- Lilac is the color of choice. Also, expect whites, reds and dark denims.
- Be on the lookout for men in one-piece jumpsuits. Detach for fun.
- Rock-star meets Hannibalector meets Andrew Buckler.


The Market
Buckler has a store down in New York City's Meatpacking district and has been the feature in such publications as DNR, Esquire and Time Out New York.

Photos courtesy- Matthew Caprotti


Editor: Maggie Zayko

THE COVER - Women's
Shiny Pretty Things, indeed. The DDC Lab design duo Savania Davies-Keiller and Roberto Crivello took a far more feminine approach to their spring line, straying slightly from the well constructed, high-tech approach they are known for.

The show was a clean running success but the production did have some major highlights.
- Plexiglass panels introduce the show as they come rolling out along the runway to the sounds of beating gongs
- DDC created a flirty alternative to high-tech with quirky color usage and fascinating color choice
- Thanks to DDC lab, the conservative girl is now super stylish.

THE TREND
DDC Lab's spring '07 presentation was focused on wearability and surprise.
- Great fitting 80's inspired suits in an outrageous color pallet
- Pencil skirts paired with Victorian blouses made lux in pure silk
- Cocktail dresses appearing demure in the front, but the back expressed a true party with ruching and funky trains
- Hoodies were reinvented in warm fuchsias and brushed golds

IN THE MARKET
DDC Lab has its signature shop at 180 Orchard Street in Manhattan's Lower East Side. The label has appeared in Magazines everywhere from Metropolis to Hamptons to Clear.
 
 


Editor: Nathan Zubal

The Cover - Men's
Sandra Davies-Keiller and Roberto Crivello of DDC USA, showed their first collection back in 98. Raw exploitation and a love affair of re-invention defined trend for the new design company.

Not only was modern fashion attributed to their launch, but also an intelligent combination of tech fabrics and inspired design excited an eager public.

The morning of September 12th I felt my heart pump with excitement. I couldn't tell if it was because of the highly caffeinated energy drink supplied by the event sponsor, or the sheer fact that I was about to view DDC's spring collection. Whichever the case, I was ready for the action.

This season was a refreshing break from DDC Lab's cool mod-tech tradition bringing light fabrics, creative prints and use of men's accessories to the collections forefront. Metal Studded PF Flyers supplied a retro feel, and the creative use of Boy Scout scarves kept the idea of re-invention alive. Team that with a white poplin shirt and black Lycra tuxedo pants.

The Trends
- Be it retailer or consumer, look out for white linen. Special attention is paid to color-applied prints.
- DDC Lab ties it together with variations of men's neckwear.
- Re-invention is present in use of the men's freedom blazer with matching shorts.

Courtesy- Factory PR

Courtesy- MAO PR


Editor: Maggie Zayko

THE COVER
Kati Stern for Venexiana launched her first collection in the winter of 2003.

The Hungarian born designer with a background in costume design has never looked back, showing up season after season with over the top designs and her signatures- leather, fur and leather!

As always the show attracted a fascinating demographic and left the audience with finite opinions.
- The front row was less fashion types, more friends (?) with a lot of skin exposed
- Even in the August heat, Stern envisions a perfect world filled with leather clad women
- There was no fluidity, each piece had little or no connection with its predecessor
- Very little wearability, but Stern's designs will translate perfectly for fashion shoots

THE TREND
The one detail that repeated itself was Stern's use of thick ribbon-like straps on a number of dresses.

This feature added simplicity, femininity and freshness to an overly stimulating show.

Flesh-tone, sheer and excessive hardware was a major theme while organza, chiffons and silks took a back seat.
- Drop waist ivory eyelet dresses were made unique with black ribbon straps
- A white and burgundy polka dot print added wearability and playfulness
- A tangerine chiffon dress with contrasting ribbon piping was a standout
- Sheer belly-shirts were a painful look which repeatedly sauntered down the runway with equally unfortunate pencil skirts.

IN THE MARKET
Handled by Showroom 521 located on West 26th street, Venexiana PR contact is Mao Public Relations.

Pieces have also been used in shoots for Vogue, Clear and Essence among others.
 


Editor: Nathan Zubal

The Cover
The name of the show may say "ONE EYE", but you will need both to take in this season's collection. The theme is derived from the designer's long-term relationship with actor Marlon Brando and the collaboration in costume design for the movie "One-eyed Jack".

Spring 07 waxes truly sentimental on old "Rock & Roll" style. But, was this anything new or revolutionary? I don't know if it really fits in that category.

It wasn't until I attended the Bloomingdale's launch party for Manuel (courtesy of MAO PR) that I fully understood the history behind the designer and his son. Manuel has been known to dress such rock legends as the Beatles and also created the classic gold lamé jacket of Elvis Presley.

The Trend
- Look out animal activists and serpents alike, snake skin is sure to show it's ugly sneer.
- A definite Spanish feel is present. Turquoise, an expected detail, is added on apparel and accessories.
- Denim and linen are teamed with stained leather. Browns, khaki and off white are a season staple.


The detailed stitching and braiding are a true highlight. From roses to marijuana leaves, you really get a strong sense of the designers craftsmanship.

Courtesy- MAO PR
 

Courtesy- MAO PR


Editor: Nathan Zubal

The Cover
Jason Wu's first collection debuted last fall at New York Fashion Week. The collection was quickly picked up by top retailers;the Hollywood onslaught quickly bit into the action, hailing him as one of the newest, hottest designers.

Wu's 2007 spring collection tells of today's modern woman who effortlessly creates a look of high-fashion. It's said Wu's inspiration was style icon Elizabeth Taylor, but with an updated twist. The use of ultra-luxe materials such as silk chiffon along with silk faille perfectly form to the figure and remain consistent with the designer's taste.

The Trend
- Cut-out blacks & mini-skirts are showing leg in Mr. Wu's line this season.
- Color choices are nudes, teal, a bit of navy and black.
- Be on the lookout for alien eye-liner:It was a true rotten cherry on top of a yummy Sunday.

The Market
Wu has seen great success in retail. His line sells in Stanley Korshak, Ultimo and Saks Fifth Avenue.

Publisher: infomat
InfoMat serves as a one-stop information source for international apparel, textile & accessories professionals. This is where retailers, manufacturers, wholesalers, and service providers interact with our network of over 350,000+ fashion companies. We make it easy to source, connect, compare, research and assess industry-wide business opportunities.
Web: www.infomat.com
Published: october 2006
Market: womens mens
Region: usa
Industry: apparel accessories
Editor: nathan zubal
maggie zayko

DISCLAIMER
Information in this report relies on sources including Trade Shows, Associations, News Releases, Government Reports and other public sources. Infomat can accept no responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of such information or for loss or damage caused by any use thereof.

 



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