The voyage - or rather voyages - is this season's main theme: for each person his or her own destination, his or her own manner of travelling. If the desire to escape is a common factor, deeply marking today's society, the type of voyages chosen reveal the evolution taking place.
The all-time favourite: the exotic voyage - the voyage dreams are made of - faraway places, heat and sensuality. But also: discovery, exchange and the mixing of cultures. It is here that culture mixing reaches its height, influences are mixed together and exoticism coloured with historical memories attached to the epoch of the colonial trading posts. Ambiguity and the art of "breaking & pasting"are cultivated.
A new direction, radically different from the precedent: the choice of clarity, integral purity, the clean and fresh. Everything is straightforward, clear and recognizable. This is the voyage towards light and elegance. In the first case, the Scandinavian countries are taken as reference point, in a concept of simplicity, contemporary design and the concern for ecology, health and well-being. A very healthy, positive spirit, opened towards the future.
In the second case, the purity of style and the notion of selection are the predominant criteria. The voyage is taken amidst luxury, refinement, with easily identifiable codes, making reference to a superior class, but also to the virtues of sport and effort.
Through these different styles of travel, the new split of the season reveals itself as quite clear: the division between the ambiguous, the melting-pot where everything is mixed together and the ultra-radical clarity which is emerging as the new direction. |
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| Theme: FIRST CLASS CRUISE |
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Introduction
A desire for new purity, an elegance approaching a certain form of minimalism. Find the balance between the feminine and the masculine, with a 1920's-30's touch of retro influence. An athletics style for a silhouette nicely designed by little pieces of anatomical shapes plus a retro-sports style, inspired by tennis and regattas. Truly feminine is a fluid, sophisticated silhouette of "hanging dresses"in salmony tones.
WOMEN
Colours
A radical, minimal spirit, tending towards femininity.
For bottoms and outerwear: a very chic, sporty and modern palette in a harmony playing on the whiteness and light of beige-whites and pale greys contrasting with brown and black.
For tops and small pieces: a more feminine spirit in a skin-coloured harmony of salmony beige and skintone of coppery reflects or else with touches of bleached pastels. |
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Silhouettes
A more minimal, radical spirit makes a strong comeback after a very "show-off"period.
A chic, elegant look with accents of retro-sports and a masculine style revisited. New long, fitted jackets are extremely modern in a supple silhouette with a "gymnastic"feel or else over a "clean"ensemble of shirt, tank-top and wide pants.
Another, more close-fitting look of tops and pants with anatomical yokes and panelling.
More feminine is a light, fluid silhouette of tops and dresses hanging from the shoulders.
Key products
- Long, fitted jacket with hem darts
- Anatomic cuts, sophisticated by material mixing
- Fluid, body-hugging multi-panelling
- Buttonless shirts
- Giant, very graphic, uneven graphics enlivened by flat flowers
- Elongated lapels and patch pockets
- High waists
- Pleating
- Contrasting inset bands
- A "sports club"spirit revisited: blouson, contrasting buttons, masculine stripes
Fabrics
For spring: very clean qualities of drills, gabardines, poplins, crepes and denim in wool, linen, cotton and blends.
A masculine wool spirit illustrated by chalk and stroke stripes, in light/dark contrasts or in tone-on-tone damask baguettes: in nonchalant ultra-soft wool, occasionally blended with polyester or cotton.
A gym inspiration for knits and stretch Lycra blends.
Great fluidity for jerseys and heavy crepes in viscose, polyester and polyamide.
For a more feminine spirit silk is treated in a sophisticated, even extravagant manner: chiffons, crepe georgette and satin, enlivened with pintucking, pleating, little banding and fringing for ultra-feminine dresses and hanging tops.
Silvery and mercurial effects for imitation leathers with coatings or mat sequins.
Giant, graphic patterns, plays of "disturbed"lines and curves, sometimes enlivened by flat flowers.
Accessories
- Soft leather basket bags
- Soft bags with snap-fastened grosgrain tab or elastic tab
- Small rigid bag in printed cloth with gold metal trim details
- Platform soles shoes
- Soft mocassins
- Between ballerina and roman sandal
- Large sunglasses in figured Bakelite
Beauty
Make-up: A total look spirit based on tinted beiges full of shade and light. Extremely sophisticated, it is modernized by the addition of mercurial grey.
Hair: A clean, constructed spirit, controlled either by short tomboy style cuts, architectural pageboys or else pinked effects. An athletics, sport spirit is felt in the wide bandeau holding back long hair for a neat, impeccable look.
Motifs: a geometric, optical, graphic spirit inherited from the creations of Vasarely.
MEN
Colours
A color range exuding elegance and refinement : pure white, pale summer gray, pinky beige. For a radical contrast, these pale neutrals play off dark tones : violet bordeaux, inky navy blue.
Two vivid hues: coral pink and menthol green liven up the range, bringing a more sporty touch.
Silhouettes
A definitely chic man whose retro-sport style is inspired by 20's and 30's tennis, golf and yachting looks.
A certain form of minimalism influenced by an athletic style that adds modernity and defines the silhouette via shapes and anatomical cuts
A fairly straight, clean silhouette defined by small anatomically-shaped pieces or fitted pants.
In the spotlight : blazers, bermudas shorts and jacquard knits.
Key products
- Navy blue blazer
- Teddy blouson in a "college mood"
- The essential trench, now chic and pure
- Low-waisted straight pants.
- Chic Bermuda
- Chic, narrow-striped sport shirt
- Cardigan in blended wool or cashmere
- Optical retro jacquard knit
- T-shirts and tank tops in stripes for a yachting look or more fitted in an athletic mood.
Accessories
- Optical striped saddle-bag
- Tennis-inspired saddle-bag
- White derby
- Chic white leather flip-flops
- Reworked deck shoe
- Flat high-tops with checks
- Knit tie, placed crest
Fabrics
Light, natural, refined materials : cotton, summer wool, linen É in pure or blended versions.
Clean qualities of canvas, gabardine, denim and poplin for fresh cotton hands.
A cruise mood for cable knits or flat ribs and two-tone geometric motifs interpreted in cotton or blended wools.
Inspired directly by gymnastics, we also note supple, stretch fabrics for tank tops, T-shirts and fitted pants.
Games of thin or thick two-tone stripes and 30's geometrics worked for prints, silkscreens or placed motifs.
In a college mood, "traditional"crests are reworked in patchworks or recolored silkscreens. |
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| Theme: NORTH SUMMER LIGHT |
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Introduction
The ambience of a Northern beach, fresh and vivifying, bathed in the summer light. It gives the feeling of a natural, healthy lifestyle in the open air, without complications nor ambiguity. Far from pollution, here it is clean and fresh. In this context, the look must be casual, composed around shirts and polo shirts, enlivened with rather na•ve folkloric touches, inspired by the Scandinavian countryside. For women, a more romantic approach, going as far as a certain sensuality, combines the casual spirit with the na•ve folkloric feeling.
WOMEN
Colours
A fresh, precise palette, enlivened by bleached bright tones combined with white.For bottoms and outerwear: fresh colours, bleached brights, clean pastels and and always white.
For the small pieces: more vitaminized and fresh tones based around yellow, coral and beige for a more romantic aspect, combined with white. |
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Silhouettes
A fresh, casual spirit in a straight line of blouson and close-fitting pants. This silhouette can be treated either in a casual chic manner, in a shirting spirit, or a more everyday look with sweaters.
A more romantic spirit for a soft line with emphasized waist and fluid bottoms. Fluid, diaphanous volumes, tops in a mix of fresh cotton and chiffonÉor else, fresh and cheerful in a colourful ambience with touches of fantasy.
Key products
- Pants, skirts or jackets in fresh colours
- Casual and romantic mix
- Pattern mixing: shirtings and poetic flowers
- Off-kilter buttoning
- Flounced, fluid yokes
- Focus on polos with reworked collars and ribbing
- Sweater-blouson, dress and sweater-blouse
- Checked blousons
- bloused effects with gathers at the waist, sleeves and necklines
Fabrics
Clean, simple easy to wear style, interpreted in shirtings: poplins, oxford and plain cottons, in either fresh stripes or solid colours to play on contrasts. Cottons are important, but are often blended with nylon or polyester, for a touch of modernity.
Shirting stripes are reworked in association with the solids, little window-pane checks or "Liberty"flowers.
In heavier weights: gabardines, drills and denim wefted with white or in bleached colours.
A more emphasized structure for piques and honeycomb weaves.
Importance of pique or ribbed jersey knits for new T-shirts and polos.
In a more romantic spirit, development of cotton voiles ornamented with fine embroidery and new broderie anglaise. Even more feminine are the light silks such as chiffons, silk pongee or lightweight satin.
Featherweight nylons continue
Mat, slightly gummy coated cottons for protective garments
Importance of shirting stripes combined with mini, na•ve folkloric patterns
Cut-out flowers and mixes of graphics, as well as fine, delicate linear flowers.
Accessories
- Fresh printed bag with ribbing detail
- Nautical bag with poetic print
- Sporty soft bag
- Ballerinas in a scarf spirit
- Printed shoes with stripes and fresh evanescent little flowers
- Sunglasses with smoke-tinted lenses
Beauty
Make-up: Bleached colours for eyes. Solid colour makes a comeback in a radically simple spirit. A romantic spirit in a manner slightly more artificial, amusing, junior and pencilled.
Hairstyles: Review the hairstyles of our childhood: headbands, hairclips, etcÉhair is accessorized. Also a folkloric spirit with fantasy chignons in the Swedish mode, enriched with ribbons or more na•ve plaits. For day, a smooth, natural spirit, silky and sophisticated and treated in white-blond tints.
Motifs: Scandinavian inspiration, in the image of simple, graphic cut-outs.
MEN
Colours
A range of fresh, luminous, slightly bleached acidics with a touch of white for a clean, neat appeal.
Silhouettes
A chic, relaxed silhouette conveying a refined casualness, emphasized by small items like polo shirts or shirts.
Blousons are simpler.
Big pieces mixed together give this theme the feel of simplicity mixed with elegance.
Accessories are inspired by contemporary design.
Key products
- Windbreaker mood, featherweight blousons in ultra-ligth cotton or technical nylon
- Casual jacket played in different versions of cotton ( solids, seersucker, printsÉ)
- Easy straight pant in cotton
- Colored low-waisted jean's
- Fleece knit bermuda in a beach style
- Slightly nipped shirt played up in stripes or fresh prints
- Sweatshirts and sweaters with retro details
- Polo shirt in sportswear mood
Fabrics
A clean, neat, easy-to-live-in style : structures are fine and impeccable (gabardine, canvas, poplin,
mini-textures É)
Poplins, pinhead weaves, oxford cloths and seersuckers work for small pieces (shirts) while solids and fresh stripes show off in contrasts.
Colored denims are whitened.
Lots of stripe games, from simple, fake two-tones to more complicated candy stripes or even deck chair stripes for more impact.
Geometric prints and naive retro graphics.
Accessories
- Yachting travel bag
- Parachute canvas bag
- Loafers with tab-strap band
- Clean high-tops
- Thong sandals in leather with coloured braids
- Sport braid belt with pure metallic buckles
- Colored sunglasses in retro 80's influence
- Necklace with pure design metallic pend
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| Theme: GLOBE-TROTTER |
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Introduction
A chic, nonchalant trek across Asia, following the route of the old colonial trading posts through Indochina and IndonesiaÉto create a new, personal travelogue, in slightly bleached and faded colours. The silhouettes of these contemporary globetrotters fade into the local landscape, combining sportswear with a uniform spirit, but always with ultra-feminine pieces, with just a hint of ethnic in a detail or trimÉ
WOMEN
Colours
A dominance of colours with a faded, filtered aspect and subtle nuances, enlivened by some stronger colours such as violet or a yellow.
For outerwear pieces, tinted, smoked neutrals derived from khaki
For the smaller pieces: subtly faded shades, but lighter and slightly more luminous. |
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Silhouettes
Predominance of a mixing spirit: uniform trend, close fitting masculine jacket either Hindu, military or colonial inspiration, worn with fluid, ultra-feminine items in lace or chiffon
A silhouette of round volumes for skirts, dresses or tunics
Little wrapped pieces
Importance of mixing on the same garment: fluid blouse with pockets or belt in basic cloth
A more womanly spirit in ultra-sexy military garments in backless cuts for exampleÉ
Straight skirts with accentuated waists also make a comeback
Key products
- Mixtures: basic sportswear fabrics + fluid chiffon or lace
- Patch pockets
- Gathers
- Print patchworks
- Wrapped spirit
- High collars
- Over-sized
- Accentuated waist and Asymmetries
Fabrics
For bottoms and outerwear:
Irregular, lightly slubbed cloths with a marled, faded or even bleached aspect and denims in faded colours
Occasionally even adorned with embroideries, appliques or over-prints
False-solids, blurred mini checks, in cotton blends, linen or summer wool
For very feminine, smaller pieces: lace, sometimes over-printed, linen voiles, cotton/silk, chiffons and silky crepes
Importance of printsÉof Asian, Chinese or Indonesian influence with batiks, flower mixes or rhythmical mini motifs
A "personal travelogue"spirit: a mixture of sketches, cards, photos and stamps in patchworks and collagesÉ
Some technical fabrics, slightly oily or gummy for more sporty items.
Accessories
- Shopping bag in aged leather and batik printed cloth
- Tabs, snaps-fastened flaps for platform soles, t-bars and open sandals with geometric and floral printed soles
- "Chinese"ballerinas revisited in aged leather or in print patchwork
- Fan in printed fabrics patchwork
- Multi-pockets and tabs, snap fastened and zips for shoulder bags and satchels
- Flat printed tennis shoes
Beauty
Make-up: A poetic, feminine spirit with delicate make-up working around faded shades. Asian influences corrected by an interpretation of the redesigned eyebrow using fine, curved lines. A more adventurous spirit-sexier and provocative for a new adventurer.
Hairstyles: A little retro, slightly out-dated, poetic and feminine. Volumes are round, either in chignon form or with the hair held and curled inwards.
Motifs: Use Indonesian geometric motifs.
MEN
Colours
A mood of subtle, patinated, filtered colors revolving around beige, sand gray, gray-green and khaki with off-white and blue variations, all pepped up with straw yellow and pink to energize the whole look.
Silhouettes
A chic, trekking silhouette mixing types - military, reporter and uniform - in an easy, casual mood.
Resolutely modern silhouettes : everything's easy to reach (sunglasses, camera, hat, cell phone, digital atlas, micro-computer) for travel or for city nomadsÉyou're ready to go !
Key products
- Short blousons under a reporter or army influence
- Multi-pocketed jackets in military or colonial style
- Slacks and fatigue pants in mix of jeans and canvas
- Multi-pocketed Bermudas
- Reporter shirts ( multi-pockets) or colonial shirts with asian embroideries and prints.
- Decorative knits in new camouflage prints or using casual details (pockets,É) in a more utilitarian mood.
Fabrics
Always beautiful, natural, compact, resistant materials, sometimes slightly rustic, in light to heavy weights on 100% cotton or linen and cotton/linen grounds. A few technical fabrics complete the outfit.
A mood of dense, sophisticated, complex fabrics. Irregular mock solids : canvases, percales, panamas, basket weaves or broken twills, plus tri-dimensional micro-textures. Piece or yarn dyes associate with printed denims (map, atlas and new camouflage prints) and batik-inspired floral embroideries. An abundance of madras.
Play coordinates and patchwork games : prints + solids, solids contrasting with different colors and fabrics (solids + trims, solids + braids, solids + nettings, etc.). The importance of visual, micro and macro weaves.
Accessories
- Hiking high-tops: bark decoration
- Basket in new camouflage print
- Travel-decorated knapsack
- Bob in loose weave effect
- Pilot sunglasses with smoke-tinted lenses
- Compass or souvenir pendant in a very globe-trotter style |
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| Theme: TROPICAL SHADOWS |
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Introduction
Head for the Americas - both central and South - to discover the exuberance of the Carribean cultures: from the rasta rhythms of Jamaica to the mosaics of Cuba. Luxurious vegetation, extreme sensuality and masculine and feminine influences combined create a sort of baroque flamboyance in a twilight of rich tonalities.
WOMEN
Colours
A palette rich in colour and density, ranging from the deepest of shades to the most dazzling. Earthy and vegetal shades tones inspired by the Amazonian forest.
For outerwear: quite a dark range with dense, pigmented brights, turning around purplish tones, violet, khaki and teal.
For the smaller pieces: a real reddish palette playing in harmony with coral, orange, red and bordeaux. |
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Silhouettes
The suit spirit reworked, with denim blousons becoming fitted jackets with accentuated waists and multi-pockets, matching short, straight "couture"denim skirts.
Little pieces in multicolour knit, always very body hugging.
A "cocktail dress"spirit with slim bodice and flared, supple skirts often ornamented with jewellery.
Importance of coloured or very dark "jean"pants, worn in contrast with cocktail blouses.
Short-sleeve tops with multi flounces.
Liberally ornamented "jewel"tops and dresses
Key products
- Wide necklines with shawl collars
- Multipockets, mainly small
- Rounded jacket hems
- Denim jackets reworked in "couture"proportions
- Multicolour crochet knits
- Ornaments and decoration: multi flounces, appliques, ribbons, patchworks, patching, embroideries, beads, sequins
- Exuberant flounces and pleating
Fabrics
Sturdy, compact fabrics such as denim, canvas and slubbed cloths.
For jackets and pants, wool/polyester weaves, shot fabrics, damasks or tone-on-tone Jacquards.
In contrast are fluid, silky fabrics: chiffons, irregularly pleated fabrics, runny jerseys.
A multicolour spirit for knits.
Importance of recoloured madras' and of course prints of flowers, giant foliage and baroque motifs mixed with vegetal motifs.
Added decorative effects are ultra present: beads, fringes, flounces, sequins and often worked in a spirit of patchwork and accumulation.
Accessories
- Shopping or saddle bag in romantic madras
- Plays of plaited leather bands for shoulder bag and open sandals
- Platform tied with leather scarf
- Ethnic necklace
Beauty
Make-up: Inspiration of sophisticated tropical flowers renew orchids for highly worked and colored make-up. Dark, metallised shades often lit up by light or bright tints, create a nocturnal look. Lips are well-designed and emphasized by extreme oranges and reds.
Hairstyles: A tropical beauty spirit with long hair held in place by surprising tropical flowers. A "South American star"direction with floating volume or short tight curls. Also an Amazonian look, with long highlighted hair worked like lianas.
MEN
Colours
A rich range of deep colors heightened by vivid, luminous notes inspired by luxurious vegetation, tropical birds and local artists' paintings.
Silhouettes
A supple, relaxed silhouette underlined by mixed styles : colonial/retro, an elegant surf mood. The importance of collarless, sleeveless or officer-collared jackets, collarless shirts, comfortably cut pants and bermudas with incorporated waistband and rope tie.
Key products
- Tropical jackets with Nehru collar in natural cotton, or cotton/linen
- Short and supple multi-pocketed jackets mixing exotic and uniform influences
- Full line and low-waisted pants in cotton, cotton/linen
- Short Bermudas in madras check
- Sport-spirit polo shirts
- Printed t-shirt with Tunisian collar
- Rib knit tank-top
Fabrics
Natural, compact, yet simple materials. Cotton and linen are confirmed in a fresh, slightly rustic mood. Micro-canvases, panama straws, ottoman games and reps are a must.
Solids work in even weaves like tarpaulins, compact micro canvases, panamas, ottomans or reps : either smooth evoking water over vegetation or in slubbed textures inspired by wine and roots.
Solids play up visible micro-structures in using slubbed yarns which emphasize rustic, sophisticated looks.
Prints take inspiration from abundant tropical vegetation and exotic birds (toucans, parrots É) ; all reworked with a modern touch.
In yarn dyes, we rediscover madras, stripes and multicolored checks, with or without patchwork effects.
Accessories
- Saddle-bags in exotic print cloth and leather
- Plaited mules or thong sandals with printed or colored soles
- Sunglasses with tinted and smoked lenses
- Caps in a sport/tropical spirit
- Belts in plaited cloth, with crocodile detailsÉ
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Publisher: ciff
Copenhagen International Fashion Fair has become Europe's fashion fair no. 1. Ciff takes place in Bella Center located in Copenhagen, Denmark. Web: www.ciff.dk Published: october 2006 Market: mens womens Region: denmark Industry: apparel accessories
DISCLAIMER Information in this report relies on sources including Trade Shows, Associations, News Releases, Government Reports and other public sources. Infomat can accept no responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of such information or for loss or damage caused by any use thereof. |
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